problem
stringlengths 614
68.4k
| solution
stringclasses 12
values | n_hop
int64 1
1
| dataset
stringclasses 1
value | split
stringclasses 1
value | __index_level_0__
int64 0
279k
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Perfect Fits perfectly
1-hop neighbor's text information: Perfect Fit This battery fit my Samsung NX3000 (I looked up the number). I don't use the NX3000 that much but when I'm on a roll and the battery runs out, it's time for an extra. I have charged this battery a couple of times, and the camera shows that it is fully charged. It hasn't let me down. I wish I didn't have to use the camera to charge it, but I don't know of any external chargers. The run time seems the same for the original and this one. Nothing exceptional, except it works.
1-hop neighbor's text information: ... camera because of the lens but will go on easy enough to use with the face of the camera ... it does not fit in the camera case when attached to the camera because of the lens but will go on easy enough to use with the face of the camera case off
Target text information: Doesn't fully charge It will only charge to 92% but I got it because my battery wasn't charging so I'll keep using it, just a little frustrating.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,674
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Great Camera For the past 4 years I shot a Canon Rebel XS and enjoyed it. I got my T5i today and was blown away by the vivid colors, the touch screen is a great thing. I bought the body only and shoot with a 18-135mm lens. This is a great combination and am very pleased with the purchase.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Does the 7D beat full frame cameras? No, but it's so good that one starts to contemplate this question, which was never the case before the 7D was introduced. Both systems, crop and full frame, have their pros and cons and place in photography. But before I get into that let me say I have not been as excited about a camera since the introduction of the 5D MK I four years ago. That's because the 7D raises the crop camera bar to the point where crop users will not feel at a disadvantage to full frame camera users, especially if coupled with awesome ef-s lenses such as the 17-55 f2.8. How so? The 7D sets a new standard in four major ways. 1. It produces whopping 18MP pictures, which are just 3MP shy of the current top of the line full frame Canon cameras. Just few years ago most pros were producing stellar results using the 1Ds MKII 16MP camera. Now you have more MPs in a crop sensor, that's a major achievement. This achievement translates into bigger prints and, perhaps more importantly, cropping power. Out shooting wildlife with a 300mm instead of 400mm? You can crop the 7D files down to 50% of their original file size and still obtain sharp pictures. It's just not that easy with the 1D MK III 10MP files. 2. Many worried that extra MPs in small crop sensors would translate into nosier pictures, but the amazing thing is that this camera produces images with what seems to be less noise than the 1Ds MKII. The noise level is very good. At ISO 1600 I still prefer pictures coming from my 5D MKII, but below ISO1600 they are very close. Frankly, I can go with either camera because most of my professionally shot portraits and product pictures are shot at ISO100. At ISO100 both produce very clean files and are practically indistinguishable. 3. Focus is the one area that was lacking on the previous 1.6 crop Canon cameras and this camera changes that. It's not a 1D in focus speed and accuracy, but it's the next best thing compared to them. It's faster than the Canon 5D MKII, which is known to be slightly faster or around the focus performance range of the 50D and 40D. 4. The drive chain is fast, so fast it's beyond anything I needed in my professional work in portrait, commercial, and product photography. Going through pictures taken at 8fps produces very little difference from frame to frame. One probably has to shoot a very fast moving subject/object to see the advantage of such fast drive system. There are obviously many other things that I have not covered in this review. But based on the above, all I can say is that this camera has really raised the bar for all cameras and made it much more affordable to obtain a professional level camera for all types of photography. If you were considering buying the 5D MKII as an upgrade give this camera a test because it might be all you need. As for the advantages of crop cameras I always find it odd that casual users who shoot many things but focus on landscape think they need a full frame to realize their potential. Crop cameras such as the 7D and 50D are fine for most users and offer many advantages including: 1. greater depth of field at lower aperture for landscape photography 2. greater tilt and shift effect because of sensor size relative to effect (8mm in shift is greater in effect relative to a 22mm sensor compared to a 35mm sensor) 3. greater magnification with micro lenses and extension tubes because of smaller sensor (1:1 in full frame equals 35mm, 1:1 in crop equals 22mm) 4. smaller lighter lenses with wider aperture that achieve greater reach (such as the 17-55 2.8 vs the 24-70 2.8 similar reach but much lighter and smaller) Traditionally the three areas full frame cameras outshine crop cameras are a bigger brighter viewfinder, shallower depth of field for portrait photography, and better ISO performance, which on the last point the 7D has proven not be an issue anymore. And for the second point really, most beautiful low depth of field portraits are done around f2.8-2.0 in full frame (going wider will make depth of field too narrow to place two eyes in focus). Hence, if one is using a wide prime, a crop sensor will produce the same depth of field at 2.0-1.4. Considering an affordable 50mm f1.4 lens on crop has the same field of view as 85mm lens on full frame there is really no reason to discount a crop camera any more as the 7D levels the playing field.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Wonderfully sharp, fast focusing and petite HIGHLIGHTS: excellent image quality, compact form factor and affordable pricing, but with few concessions in build and AF performance. CONSTRUCTION: Slightly smaller and heavier than the prior model, EF 50 1.8 II, aka nifty-fifty, but with significantly better build quality. Improvements include metal mount, sturdier barrel and AF/MF switch, larger focus ring, grippy matte finish and stepping motor (STM). Unfortunately, it has an odd filter size, 49mm, rather than 52 or 58mm common to small Canon lenses. OPTICAL QUALITY: It's the same optical formula as the nifty-fifty, but with tweaks to lens coatings and improved close focus ability. Wide open it's tack sharp center frame, sharper than my nifty-fifty. Corners on full frame, e.g., 6D, are darker and softer than center but equalize by F2.8. On APS-C cameras, e.g., 70D and Rebel, there is little corner darkening or softness since nearly half the image circle is cropped out. Optimal sharpness is at F5.6. Chromatic aberration (CA) is mild and reduced over the nifty-fifty. In short, image quality is excellent open wide, even better stopped down and one ups the nifty-fifty in both sharpness and control of CA. BOKEH: I love the soft whirl of a defocused background, and this seven-blade diaphragm does not disappoint, rendering smooth bokeh and pleasantly round specular highlights. The smooth bokeh combined with pin sharp center frame really make subjects pop at larger apertures. This a great portrait lens! AUTO FOCUS speed and reliability is markedly better than the nifty-fifty. It's accurate and rarely misses focus even in low light. Focus is achieved by front element extension (nested barrel. The STM motor is quieter than the prior model, albeit not completely silent. VIDEO FOCUS on a 70D is not as fast as STM zooms but buttery smooth and great for touchscreen pulls and Movie Servo. Focus noise, while low volume, was recorded by my 70D's built-in mic during quiet video clips. The workaround is to use an external mic or prefocus. MANUAL FOCUS is focus-by-wire: the ring merely activates the focus motor and is not mechanically coupled to the lens. Manual focus is smooth, but control isn't as good as a mechanical ring. The MF ring is thin but wider than the nifty-fifty's ring and better positioned. Like USM lenses, it has Full-Time Manual (FTM), allowing AF override without flipping a switch: simply turn the MF ring. Unlike USM lenses, FTM is only active when the shutter button is half-depressed. HOOD: The groove on the barrel is for the <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Canon-ES-68/dp/B00X8MS0JA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Canon ES-68</a>, locking bayonet hood. It attaches to the outer barrel, protecting the protruding inner barrel from frontal impact and flare. It's pricy but a worthwhile investment. Update (8/16/2015): The <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/JJC-LH-68/dp/B013FOFHJQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">JJC LH-68</a>, a clone of the ES-68, is now available at less than half the cost of OEM. FINAL BLURB: The natural perspective and fast aperture make the EF 50 1.8 STM ideal for low light, travel and street photography with a full frame camera (6D). On a cropper, e.g., Rebel or 70D, it's a short telephoto and perfect for portraits, indoor sports and stage. Canon got everything right with this redesign: accurate and snappy AF, sturdy build and, most significantly, vivid and sharp images wide open.
Target text information: Absolutely love it! I've had this camera for about three years now and it's done wonders for me! The quality of the build, the ease of use, and the overall feel of the camera is amazing. Pros: -18Mp Amazing quality shots -High 6400 ISO -Access to all other Canon lenses -1080p Video -Strong quality build Cons: -A little bulky I love the 60D and would recommend it to anyone who's even remotely interested!
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
8
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,675
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Great introduction to m4/3 This review is in response to recent price movements for this camera. It's now offered around two-thirds the MSRP. I don't expect the price to go back up too much. This is the same money as a good point-and-shoot. For that, you get a really lightweight SLR-style camera with pretty good ergonomics and good features. I had used Panasonic point-and-shoots for the last six or seven years and have always been really pleased with the performance and build quality. However, I wanted more detail in my pictures and better low light ability. This camera has a better flash, a bigger sensor (not in terms of megapixels, but in terms of physical size, meaning similar sized image files of about 5 Mb per file, but less useless noise). The user interface is good, allowing more experimentation than my old Panasonic point-and-shoots. I feel like I have some growing room. Also, I tried the Olympus PEN E-PL1 competitor and found the autofocus system incredibly annoying. It was slow OR constantly hunting loudly. I love the feel of the G10/G1 much more than the E-PL1 (or the GF1 for that matter - I was surprised by that). The real thing that sets this camera apart is the interchangeable lenses. I was able to buy an Olympus 9-18mm lens to get breathtaking landscapes that are 18mm equivalent ultra-wide, without stitching together pictures to make panoramas. So why only four stars? Well, I prefer the G1, which this camera is supposed to replace. That camera may still be available from Amazon for a very good price not too much more than this camera. My advice: buy the G1. It has a better screen (with articulation), better viewfinder (with a nifty sensor to detect when you're using it!), and a much better kit lens. I know the lenses look very similar and the one for the G10 is lighter, but it's a significantly worse lens. Even I can tell the difference! Since the whole point of this camera for me was to buy good glass and occasionally replace the body, it did not make sense to invest in this particular kit. That having been said, if you can't do the extra sixty dollars or need a movie mode, this is still a great camera. I'd also have a look at the GF1, although that's the price that the G10 is supposed to be. Both make the G2 look conspicuously over-priced right now, although that touch screen is cool. As far as lenses, I recommend the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 lens and the Olympus M Zuiko 9 - 18mm (don't worry about lack of image stabilization on this one).
1-hop neighbor's text information: Underrated camera! I purchased this camera in Nov. 2011. It's now Jan. 2012. I've literally learned photography's secrets through this camera. I've researched and learned non-stop for the past 2 months or so and this has been my experience so far... Let me start off by saying that the touchscreen is very responsive if you think of it as being like a Nintendo DS screen rather than an iPhone screen. In other words, a stylus works better than your fingertip. Or, you can be like me, slap an LCD screen protector on there and use your thumb nail. In fact, a little stylus in the shape of a soda can tab is included with this camera in the box. But I think it will be a little weird to have to start carrying around a stylus with your camera, though I admit, I keep a black Nintendo DS stylus in my camera bag. If you have no interest in using a touchscreen, you can still navigate through the menus and do everything through the physical buttons. However, I highly suggest using the touchscreen. The physical buttons only have one function(fn) button, and it is tied together with the Quick menu button. You can decide whether to use this button as a fn or Q.menu button in the settings menu. If you use this button as a fn button, you can customize it to be a variety of things, I have my GF2 set to act as an Auto Focus/Auto Exposure lock button. You can configure the touchscreen to have the Quick Menu button as a digital button instead. By doing this, you essentially allow your camera to have more buttons, which you will learn is one of many differences between a beginner camera and a more advanced camera. The Quick menu is a customizable, in that you can put whatever you want into it, from metering, auto focus settings, exposure, raw vs jpg, histogram, flash settings, etc etc. By using this feature, you allow your most common and favorite setting changes to be available to you at a push of a button, in comparison to trying to navigate through all of the screens in the normal menu. The ability to configure this camera to act as either a more advanced camera or a beginner camera is really quite nifty. You can argue from a pro standing point though, that by having to press the Q.menu button to get to your favorite setting changes is an unnecessary step when compared to true pro cameras where a lot of these options are readily available as physical buttons on the body. Another feature concerning buttons, though later proven to be sort of a fault to a lot of enthusiasts, is that the mode dial is digital. On the top-left of the LCD touchscreen, a small icon/letter is present when you want to take pictures. This is the new mode dial, what you would normally see as a wheel on the top of a camera with the letters P, A, S, M and other symbols depending on the camera you're looking at. You simply tap this digital button, then tap your desired mode (P, A, S, M, iA, My Color, Scene, Custom). I actually think it's pretty cool if you can familiarize yourself with using the touchscreen. The touch screen also acts as a focusing tool. You can literally have two objects that are different distances from the camera and simply touch on them on your touchscreen and your camera will automatically focus on that subject. This works on video as well. The last thing I want to touch base on concerning buttons is that the GF2 is still pretty pro-friendly. Don't believe people who review this camera that simply tried it out in the store. For instance, as far as a "lack of physical controls" there is still a thumb-wheel (more popular on advanced cameras), that acts as 2 wheels in one. You simply push the wheel, as if it were a button, in order to switch its function that you want to change. For example, in Aperture priority mode you can turn the thumb-wheel to adjust your aperture to your liking then push the wheel like a button and now you can adjust your exposure to your liking. This wheel has a very distinct clicking sensation while turning, each click being a displayed increase or decrease in incremental changes on your screen. It's actually pretty nice! Another great thing about this camera is that the body is made of metal, it feels very sturdy and well built, "STRONG LIKE BULL!" However, I cannot say the same about the kit lens, which is made of plastic, even the mount is plastic, which when put onto the metal mount of the camera body, you are sliding/screwing plastic against metal... yuck! I plan on getting rid of this lens as soon as I can get an arsenal of primes that cover the range of the kit lens. --A 14mm 2.5 lens is dirt cheap on ebay, followed by a Leica branded 25mm and a Leica branded 45mm... though expensive, these are practically the cheapest way to afford Leica branded lenses. I just sort of wish they WEREN'T branded as Leica so as to lessen the cost even more, they're really nice glass! The GF2 has a compact size, pocket-able with certain available lenses, I can actually fit this setup in my jacket pockets albeit someone always asks if I'm just happy to see them. Images come close enough to DSLR quality, considering its size. It has customizable menus, 1080 video, touchscreen, hot-shoe (for external flash or electronic viewfinder, both sold separately), and also a HUGE assortment of adapters that are available to use with lens other than the Panasonic Lumix lenses. You lose auto-focus when using an adapter for 3rd party lenses though, but there is a zoom feature for manual focus that helps a lot with this. In fact, this has become one of my favorite features. My fiance has an old Minolta camera (Minolta was right up there with Nikon and Canon back in its heyday), I purchased an adapter for about $20 on Amazon and now I can use MD mount lens on my camera. Even though it's manual focus, I am able to buy really fast lenses for dirt cheap. Tie that in with the fact the Micro Four Third cameras has a 2x crop factor, and this really pushes the limits of what this camera is capable of. For example, I just purchased a 50m/f1.7 Minolta lens for $23, this translates into 100mm/f1.7 (though DoF is also x2, it's still cool) on the GF2. There is no such thing as a 50mm/f1.7 @ $23, or any lens for this matter, for these cameras, the closest being the Olympus 45mm/f1.8 at $385! The Minolta 50mm/f1.4 is also availab on ebay for less than $100. On this note, this isn't just limited to Minolta lens, you can get a Canon or Nikon adapter and borrow lens from your DSLR when you don't feel like trekking around your 10lb camera. Another note here, when using a four-thirds lens (via adapter) the GF2 (and other MFT cameras) supports AF for the LATER Panasonic/Leica and Olympus four-thirds lens that have 'Contrast Detection Auto Focus' or CDAF. Now, as far as third party lenses go, I also need to mention that you lose the image stabilization in Panasonic lenses. Panasonic implemented image stabilization into their lenses rather than their camera bodies for reasons unbeknownst to me. I cannot say for certain if the image stabilization in the Panasonic four-thirds lenses is compatible with GF2 (or any other Panasonic MFT camera). Theoretically, one would assume that it is, but I haven't actually tried it out yet nor have I heard or read anything about it either. Also, know that when using 3rd party lens, you aren't able to control the aperture of the lens through the camera, you'll be better off using a lens with an aperture ring. Another way around this is to lock the lens wide open on another camera before mounting it onto the GF2. So what's NOT good about this camera? I've talked this camera up a lot in this post/review, but by no means do I think it's perfect, I just think that it hasn't had the recognition it deserves and that a lot of bad reviews (not necessarily Amazon) from people who don't even own the camera have made this camera seem pretty bad, when in actuality, it's pretty awesome. That, and people who don't get along with change, you know the ones I'm talking about... "Oh, I don't want to use a touch screen, I'm used to having 20 buttons on my camera and not have to look at it, now I have to go through the screen." Blah blah blah, these peoples parents and grand parents were complaining about cameras and TVs going to color from black and white, "but I already see in color, why would I want a color picture or watch color TV?" C'mon people, it's the FUTURE, embrace technology will ya? haha... Anyways, the major drawback on the GF2 is low light. Seriously, it's like friggin' kryptonite to this thing. Especially with the super slow 14-42 standard zoom kit lens! Mixed in with the fact that with the shorter focal lengths of this lens, the flash doesn't even clear the lens's size! Seriously, take a normal picture at 14mm with this lens (preferably of a wall to really see what I'm talking about), and there's a quarter-circle of shadow in the lower right hand corner of the picture! Someone didn't really think this one through! The pop-up flash does have a pretty unique advantage above other cameras though (excluding the Panasonic's new GX1, which has a very similar flash) in that it can be held up with your finger and used as a bounce flash. But then again, the standard zoom lens is too slow/dark to be able to really benefit from it. And back to the whole "dim light" thing, this camera's high ISO capability is like taking a picture and printing it out on sand-paper. I use ISO 800 maybe once in a while for casual stuff with the kids and family, but if I'm trying to do some type of project or another, I won't go above ISO 400. And if I have a project at nightfall or in dim light, if it's not going to be a a sepia, BnW, or vintage project, FORGET IT! Get some flashlights and light up the place because this camera won't be capturing a salvageable image in the dark. Now, as far as remedies go, don't forget that the camera has a hot-shoe. I'm planning on getting an external flash, Metz 58 AF-2, after I get some better glass. Also, did I mention that the standard zoom kit lens sucked, the first lens I have on order is the 25mm/f1.4, this lens should suck in MUCH more light for low light settings (the 20mm/f1.7 would probably suffice, but I don't want to end up buying 2 primes of similar/close focal lengths, in case it isn't enough). After trying out the new lens/flash, I'll see how this camera performs. The bad part about the flash though is that I lose some of the advantage of portability (I'll have to put the flash in another pocket, lol). So, in conclusion. This camera isn't perfect. But for the price, you get a lot of bang for your buck. It's literally one of the cheapest interchangeable-lens cameras available. If money isn't a factor for you but you want this camera's benefits and the lens availability, I highly recommend getting Panasonic's new GX1. It performs much better than the GF2 in low light situations, and it has a PHYSICAL dial, YAY! Not to mention all of the on screen options listed here and then some. In all honesty, if the 25mm/f1.4 lens and flash doesn't help remedy the noise issue in the GF2, I'll be looking at the GX1 as an upgrade. But as far as this camera goes, it has a lot of pro features left from its predecessor, the GF1 and a lot of user-friendliness of its successor, the GF3; creating for a perfect hybrid between pro manual features and ease-of-use digital technology.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Misdirected Expectations I recently acquired both the GF3 and a FH25K point and shoot and was curious which would provide the best vacationer experience. I had damaged my Casio EX-S5 by inadvertently turning it on while it was in a case and my wife had managed to misplace her Canon PS-A2200 so I needed a point and shoot replacement. I was torn between the Lumix FH25K and the Lumix GF3. I initially thought that since I already had a Lumix G1 and a (somewhat unfairly excessively maligned) Lumix 14-42 kit lens, I might as well give the GF3 body a try, hopefully it might provide better performance than a pure P&S like the FH25K. Here are my impressions: The GF3 is most definitively a tweener and it's compromises are likely to rankle both P&S shooters and more advanced enthusiast. With the kit 14-40mm mounted it is too large to slip into ones pocket and too limited in external controls and features to appeal to most enthusiast. I personally really miss having a view finder or a dedicated hot shoe, especially considering the P&S style, red eye inducing P&S type flash. The camera body is very small and it is difficult to find a proper grip, I find myself supporting the cameras weight more from the lens than the body, but once one gets past those limitations and learns where all the menu feature controls are, it's a pretty fun camera. It's electronics work well notably the iA setting, the point of focus tracking and the lock feature as well as the depth of field control works pretty well. The touch screen is not as sensitive as one might hope but I see that not so much as a negative because I already inadvertently set features on and off too often accidentally. The menu is pretty intuitive insofar as how the main controls are arranged although there are a few features that I'm still grappling with and others, such as manual focus on/off which appear buried too deep in the menu, the manual setting does not disable auto-focus. Several people have complained about the lack of a dedicated movie mode recording button but that feature is very easy accessed from the menu. The video recording is OK, you can zoom while recording but you pick up a lot of extraneous noise like with most other P&S cameras. The sound is mono and there is no provision for external mics but realistically, did anyone expect there to be? The image recording quality seems pretty good although I admit that I have not spent a lot of time tweaking and fidgeting with the video features. Still, I think most casual users would be satisfied and especially getting both an interchangeable lens still camera and video camera at a bargain price. I don't however think video enthusiast would be satisfied with the compromises. Curious about several contributors assertions, I tried shooting duplicate photos using my cell phone, (a Samsung Galaxy II), the Lumix FH25K and the GF3. I tried this in several situations shooting approximately eight pictures in each setting. I got some surprising good shots with my cell phone but never did it perform up to the IQ standards of the FH25K or the GF3 although it did surprise me how good of a picture you can get from a cell phone camera. The quality between the well regarded (Leica badged lens) purely P&S FH25K and the GF3 were not always so clear cut. I don't think there was a single shot where the GF3 did worse and in most shots it was superior although in not so obvious ways, most notably when taking pictures of my parrots, two vividly colorful conures and a radiant green, Severe Macaw, the FH25K did an excellent job with detail and color rendition but in almost every shot the birds eyes were not sharply focused and most suffered significantly from green eye. The GF3 did an excellent job of holding focus on the birds faces and it's iA seemed to choose a smaller aperture rendering a greater depth of focus with less green eye. In this sequence of about 16 shots, both cameras were set to iA and the GF3 was clearly the winner. Outside natural light shots, general architectural type shots and friends around the table type snapshots were about nip-n-tuck. If I enlarge the photos looking for something to quibble with there may be a bit more purple fringing (CA) and barrel distortion and a little worse red eye with the FH25K but it's fixed lens zoom has greater reach and it has a greater convenience factor. The touch screen on the GF3 works much better than I expected so I might have preferred the FH27K to the FH25K now that I see the touch screen and program really does provide a P&S advantage. The GF3 is a fun camera that functions very well. My personal form factor preference remains the Lumix G1 and regard the efforts to make the G and GF models increasingly smaller with totally menu and electronically controlled features a regression but I understand Panasonic's goals and target market. The GF3 really is a nice camera capable of producing excellent results and most of my gripes are about what it isn't instead of what it is and I knew exactly what it was before buying it. I'm keeping it though, both it and the Lumix FH25K.
Target text information: Happy so far. Compared to Olympus Pen Mini E-PM1 Forgot to check Amazon reviews before buying this, but glad I didn't because the camera is quite good for my needs and I might not have bought it based on the mixed and sparse reviews on Amazon. I did look at "professional" reviews on photographyblog and dpreview, which were much more positive. I was deciding between the new Olympus Pen Mini E-PM1, Sony NEX C3, and GF3. Tried out the Olympus and GF3, and decided on the GF3. I got a better price on the GF3 than I could for the Pen Mini, but that was just icing on the cake, because the features on the GF3 meet my needs better. Similarities between GF3 and E-PM1: --body size about the same --similar price range --Micro Four-Thirds sensor --both are the budget, easy-to-use version of their respective camera families --instant-record movie button --kit zoom lens 14-42mm --neckstrap --to my layman eyes the photo quality was about the same, as was auto-focus speed, though E-PM1 is billed as having the fastest auto-focus in this category. The features that put the GF3 over the top for me: --Price. I got a great deal on the GF3. Sony was just too expensive, though I've read great things about photo quality --GF3 touchscreen, while not very responsive (resistive screen you have to press down on, rather than capacitive screen like iPhone), is very useful for quick adjustments. It just makes the camera easier to use, much like an iPad is easier to use than a laptop. Deleting batches of photos is much easier than using buttons. So is scrolling around a photo you're reviewing in close-up. You can also touch to change the subject of focus, like on an iPhone. --Flash is built in--not so on the Pen Mini or NEX. I'm not an "enthusiast" and have no intention of ever buying an external flash or viewfinder, so lack of a hotshoe was not an issue. Flash can also be tilted up to the ceiling (with some finger dexterity) to do a bounce-flash that brightens up indoor photos without that nasty flash look. Other 2 cameras come with a small add-on flash, but that's just too much trouble. --I like the physical on-off switch rather than the Pen Mini's button --Menus and options were slightly more intuitive, though I admit my previous camera was a Panasonic as well, so I may be used to their menus. --In addition to dedicated movie button, there's a dedicated "iA" full-auto button, which my wife can press to go to full-auto mode without digging into menus (it lights up). --Big lens cap seems easier to handle. --Comes with lens hood, which I might not use but is nice to be included. --Battery charger is a one-piece mini brick with prongs built in, making it very portable. E-PM1 comes with a brick with power cord attachment. I can't speak to other reviewers' issues with the pancake lens (since I don't have it) nor the flash durability (since I've only had the camera a week). About the Pen Mini: --Body is about the same size as the GF3, but the kit zoom lens is smaller (shorter and narrower) --Stabilization is in the body, not the lens like GF3. From what I read this is supposed to be an advantage, but I think it was adding noises to the videos I took (turning off stabilization stopped the noises). I haven't noticed similar noises in GF3 videos with stabilization on. --Lock on the lens to close it (but not open it) started to get annoying quickly. --Flash was impressive--power is adjustable, and I think it auto-adjusts based on subject distance. From what I can see of the GF3, it fires full-power all the time, which can make photos look washed out. Fortunately the bounce-flash trick mentioned above avoids that problem. --Neck strap attachment loops are hinged and tends to kind of make click-clack noises when handling the camera. About me: my main photo subject is my 2 yr old daughter, so I was looking for a camera that would focus quickly, take decent pics in indoor light without flash, and still be small enough to throw in the diaper bag with room to spare for, well, diapers and stuff. These criteria rule out bulky SLRs, and most point-and-shoots. For my daughter's first 2 years I had the Panasonic LX-3, a "high-end point-and-shoot". The LX-3 produces great pics in good light, and decent pics in low light, but I find the focus is too slow (esp. in low light) now that my daughter is moving around (a LOT). Long review and naturally biased toward the GF3, but I hope it helps your decision process!
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
8
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,676
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Designed to be meet the bare minimum qualifications of a "cage". Let's be honest, when it comes to getting a properly fitting cage for the a6000, you don't have a ton of options. The Walimex cage ($300 but awesome: http://goo.gl/hxgfz2) and a small array of much cheaper designs like this one. I have bought Smallrig products in the past and had good luck so I decided to try this out. I needed a compact cage to fly the a6000 on our Ronin M plus protect it in use as a B-cam to our a7s. I will say that the a6000 fits perfect in this. There is also plenty of 1/4-20 slots for anything you want to add. But here's my main concern, the only thing holding the camera in place is the bottom thumb screw. This crates a terrible amount of flex between the top of the cage and camera when any pressure is put on the top end! Most cages have the benefit of a heavier camera or a thicker cage frame to counteract this issue. The frame on this cage is super thin and the a6000 is tiny making the point of contact at the bottom not stable enough. I have included pics of the Fotga rig we use. Anytime I use the follow focus the camera flexes in the cage up and down because of the weak contact. So to correct this issue, you need to create some sort of connection between the top of the cage and the camera body. You can see in the pics attached that I used wire, but a more professional looking option would be to get some tiny black zip ties and attach to where the triangle strap points go. Annoying but it works. The lack of any accessories included is also disappointing. Smallrig is asking an insane amount ($50) for the top handle alone. It would be nice to see this sold as a set for around $100 or a more simplistic handle included with the cage as-is. So yes, this is a cage. And while it does have some design flaws it does fit the a6000 just fine. I would not recommend it for someone wanting to use it in a rig like I have pictured. For that I would recommend the walimex cage. But for added protection in a gimbal or a very lightweight cage for other use it does work.
Target text information: Very good case overall Very good case overall, I docked one star because HDMI cable will not fit flush without moving the camera slightly diagonal. I am not sure why they didn't check this but great cage otherwise.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,678
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Stop reading reviews, just push the purchase button I was reluctant to buy. In comparison to Pocketwizard these seemed to good to be true. They really work, plain and simple. I don't know how long they will work but for the price I'll still be money ahead. Even if they stop after a year, will still be cheaper than Pocketwizards!! They make using off camera flash so much easier.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Well made Some ppl wrote that the sand leaks out of these bags. Well, that's gonna happen with sand!!! I fixed this issue by putting the sand in a zip Loc Baggie first then putting it in the sand bags. Not an issue. These are very well made.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Nice, big reflector Great big ol reflector with some great uses, but some limitations. The kit comes in a zippered carrying case and although there are no directions, which there should be, it's easy and quick to put together. It's sort of like a kite or tent. I laid out the reflector panel so the side I want to use is facing down. Each of the flexible rods has one side with a collar. The non-collar side of the rod goes into the adapter, making sure the holes line up for the other side's rod, and the collar side goes into the grommet at each corner of the reflector. Once all four rods are in their tension holds the reflector panel in place well and I can put it in the mounting bracket attached to a stand. I have the cheap lightweight light stands and it held this big reflector fine, whatever position it was rotated to. This set is not heavy duty professional, but it doesn't seem cheap either. The material on both reflector panels seem to be vinyl, like many backpacks, etc. Not thin, but thick enough for this purpose. They're stitched together nicely and the grommets were installed well. The mounting bracket for the stand works well, made from decent enough plastic and stays in position tightly, but the metal rod adapter piece is kind of a soft metal. It still works fine and should last a good while, but the bracket screws definitely bite into it. As a photography reflector...it reflects a lot. Well, besides the black side meant for absorbing light instead. It's about 3' wide and almost 6' tall, so it can really bounce a lot of light toward your subject from head to toe. They work well on a stand so you can position it how you want, or you can have someone just hold it as well. They're really meant for indoor use but could be used outside as well, however I'd only have someone hold it. Even with sandbags, these things are like wind sails and even a small breeze would probably knock it over. You wouldn't want to use it on a windy day at all, unless you plan on tying a string to it like a kite to see how high it can go. Also you can use the white panel horizontally for a projector screen in a pinch. You could also use these as backgrounds, but you'll have to play with the subject distance/camera's focus or figure out how to get the lines out of the material. Overall a nice, well made, big reflector that's fairly easy to set up and works well. Happy with it so far. I received a free sample for my review.
Target text information: Help up great Works exactly what it was meant for with just one clip it was strong enough to hold onto the green screen I purchased definitely recommend.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
4
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,679
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Great Concept, But Not A Perfect Product, VERY USEFUL I bought a set July 27, 2014. Generally, these work as designed and that is very good. They self level, readily adjust height, and are generally simple to use. These are the good aspects and what is expected from the product. I purchased http://smile.amazon.com/Smallrig-Female-Tripod-Reducer-Adapter/dp/B00ANEFZFI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage adapters so that I can use the trigger sticks as a camera bipod. This works very well for this purpose when you don't have or don't want to be carrying a separate tripod with you. Overall as shooting sticks, this setup is large, bulky, and fairly heavy, but tall tripods are generally all these things as well, but you get the benefit here of the self leveling legs with the push of a single trigger release and that is really cool! There are negative aspects and these are important. The rubber strap that holds the legs together does not keep the legs secured during movement through the fields and such. It comes undone. I now use a plastic ring that I slide down the legs to hold in place. The legs can bang together and make quite a bit of noise. This seems to happen during transport or while trying to be stealthy and deploying the sticks when a quarry has been spied. Placing some pipe insulation around the base of at least 2 of the legs will keep them from banging together. Be careful with the yoke attachment at the top. If it comes loose, it can self-unscrew during the motion of hiking and fall off. This happened to me. The replacement was something like only $6 from Primos and their CS was quite good, but note that this can happen. The really bad downside to the Jim Shockey Deluxe Edition Tripod Trigger Sticks is that they don't like water. Several of my buddies have had their legs freeze up (rust internally) as a result of being out in bad weather while hunting. These are not wet weather-resistant! After nearly 2 years and careful use, I have one leg that is slightly problematic and needs help deploying, but otherwise, mine still work alright. Should you buy these? Well, if you need tripod shooting sticks (I do a lot better with tripod sticks over bipod sticks), then I think these are probably one of the better ways to go. They aren't perfect, but if you keep them dry and adapt them to your situation, you will find them indispensable.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Two Stars This monopod wasn't nearly up to the rigors of elk hunting.
1-hop neighbor's text information: better then expected but easy fix flaws. read for details This is a very nice product it surprised me being cheap. But we'll thought out the adjustable rods are easy to work and will reach as tall as my standong gun hold witch is about 6ft I'm 6ft 3 It is very light weight and compact and the wrist strap gives you a better handle on it for steadier shoots though it being cheaper there are flaws but they are fixable for the most part one the bottom rod is flimsy when fully out recommend using the thicker rods more so two dust and grit likes to get inside the tube at fix is to get some paraffin wax buy it at Kroger Walmart food city in the baking ails rub the paraffin wax all over the rods when fully outstretched to create a coating in them grit and grim will wipe off easy before you retract them back in three the grip at top will not open easy to lay stock onto easy fix slid barrel in first the stock will them slid in as well I like this flaw though because it seems to hold the gun more sturdy.. Hope this review helps someone
Target text information: Good value Old Stoney point design. Good value
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
6
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,680
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: I liked the handle (rubber not foam) and the inside compartment ... I ordered this for my Go Pro Hero 4 Silver. In my opinion, the product was well made. I liked the handle (rubber not foam) and the inside compartment better than the Go Pro branded model plus it was less expensive. But, my camera would not easily mount to the Mystery handle. The slots on the handle did not exactly match the ones on the camera. You would have to use a screw driver or similar tool to pry the slots open a litle more to get it to work. Too much trouble when you want to change to the handle quickly. I tried my friend's Go Pro branded handle and it works perfectly. I liked this handled but returned it to Amazon as it didn't work. Guess I will have to go with the Go Pro model.
Target text information: One way to not lose a GoPro at the bottom of the sea. Simple and functional! It will save my son's GoPro from the bottom of the lake. It floats, the GoPro floats with it, it acts as a handle. The construction is solid, and I'm sure it can take some abuse. Thanks guys:)
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,681
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: The lens works great. The fish eye isn't as wide as I ... I bought this lens used. The description was minimal but was categorized as "very good". The product (besides packaging) looked brand new. There were no scratches or marks of any kind on it. The lens works great. The fish eye isn't as wide as I had hoped ( i may be using it incorrectly) but the macro lens is amazing. I took this photo yesterday. Great seller and product for the price.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Five Stars good product but didn't fit my camara
1-hop neighbor's text information: I really love this lens I really love this lens. When I was shooting crop I had their 8mm. When I moved to full frame I sold the 8mm and was without a fisheye till now. This lens is awesome. Lens is well built and and feel nice in the hands. I have only played with it for a few min but I really like this lens. Since the price is a lot less than other lenses if you're thinking of getting a fisheye and not spend $1000 plus, this is the one for you.
Target text information: very beautiful lens for full frame <div id="video-block-R1849P794UVCZ6" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1uJqi0tHuS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81m3flJ5m-S.png" class="video-slate-img-url"> very beautiful lens and do recommend for plenty of images but almost never at the 8mm length for people or animals... If, you shoot down on someone you may be able to make a fatter person smaller... But, mostly no persons at 8mm. The 15 mm is outstanding for "wall to wall" images and well worth the lens for that 15mm. I uploaded a singel 8mm image that shows this view on a full frame camera (5D Mark III) and it is a good lens at that length for tight nature shoots... or... Be very careful with this lens once you take hood off... as you can get too close to subject and literally hit subject using the 8mm length (which can be an expensive lesson)... remember, to lean forward to keep your feet out of images when using this lens and finally, remember the view is all the way around the same on a full frame camera... Distortion is minimal and if you keep straight lines out of your images it will not show (find the sweet spot on distance)... The last moment I thought of a great way to show you this lens in MOVIE MODE -- LOL -- so, much easier for all to see the range of this lens... I found a location full of objects which will allow for easy "figuring out" what the distortion is on this lens and you might see as a buyer... Remember, crop sensors will NOT get the full circle at 8mm... Love you, kai PS I hope this video and review was helpful and remember you can pause video at anytime to see what a still image would look like -- so, here is the review with full range - aslo do not forget the "limit setting" which stops lens from going below 10 degrees.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
10
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,682
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Two Stars Too weak to be of practical use.
1-hop neighbor's text information: An excellent balance between protection and convenient access. Olympus TG-870 fits nicely. Stays put even without the drawstring pulled tightly closed, (so it's easy to quickly pull the camera out or put it back in). Clip on top is solid and firmly attached. Air holes in the case allow wet camera to drain and dry. Lightweight but has proven quite durable. Padded enough to take the edge off medium shocks.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Perfect Just what I needed, great price, came quickly.
Target text information: Between 10 and 30 cm the FD-1 as a flash diffuser will be the better choice. The two settings for the FD-1 involve ... The LG-1 has worked well for me, and I bought the FD-1 thinking it was an improved model. It's not. The two work differently and have different uses. The LG-1 redirects continuous light to a ring around the lens. The FD-1 is a flash diffuser that can also work with the continuous LED light. The FD-1 bounces the flash toward the lens, then forward, but doesn not surround the lens with even lighting. For extreme close ups with the microscope setting, particularly with focus stacking setting, the LG-1 gives even lighting all the way around and you can get closer to the object. Please note that the LG-1 only works with the LED. While the FD-1 can function with both LED and flash, it is optimized for flash. Between 10 and 30 cm the FD-1 as a flash diffuser will be the better choice. The two settings for the FD-1 involve moving a small blade in front of the flash for more or less diffusion. The extra diffusion may be better for the 5 to 15 cm focal range. Beyond 30 cm, you'll need the full flash without the FD-1. Now that I have both, will I keep both? Yes, but only because the small extra value of the FD-1 exceeds the hassle of mailing it back. Should you get both? Depends on your needs, but probably not. For the closest distances, under 10cm, the LG-1 is superior; and for focus stacking, the LG-1 is almost a necessity. For flash at 15 to 30 cm, the LG-1 will block the flash and you'll need the FD-1. The FD-1 is designed for underwater and the LG-1 is not. For 1 to 15 cm with continuous light, and I can only carry one, I'll use the LG-1. The first three pictures used focus stacking on a penney. They represent no flash, LG-1 continuous (most even lighting), and FD-1 continuous. The next two pictures show the blade in down and up position on the FD-1. [Please note that I have not measured which lighting mode consumes battery charge quicker, but obviously your charge will not last as long if you are always using flash or LED. If you don't have them already, it may be wiser to buy a battery charger with extra batteries as your first purchase, then pick up the LG-1 or FD-1 as your second purchase.]
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,683
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Absolutely Excellent "L" Lens Plate Using an "L" lens plate works extremely well when shooting vertical as it allows all the same movements of the tripod as one had when shooting horizontal. When you just flip the head over to shoot vertical, without an "L" bracket, you lose some of the tripod head adjustments and sometimes you have to adjust the legs to get the camera level. It can also affect the balance of the tripod and cause it to tip over. My wife and I have always historically bought Kirk "L" plates for our digital cameras including 2 each for the Canon 10D, 20D, 40D, 5D and 7D. When we bought two new 5D MKII's, I found that the "L" plates from the 5D's would not fit the MKII's, and I decided to stop paying $139 to $150 dollars each for "L" plates that become obsolete every couple of years. And, selling used cameras with "L" lens plates do not increase the selling price. So, we went on a trip to Yosemite, in February, without any "L" plates and that was a big mistake. So I found these plates on Amazon and bought 2 for $39.00 each, thinking if they worked at all that would be OK. I am very pleased to say that they work perfectly and we are very pleased with them. We can still get to the accessory recepticals to use our corded shutter realeases. They are cast aluminum like everyone elses and the fit and finish are excellent. I highly recommend these "L" lens plates for landscapes, macros and any time you attach the camera to the tripod, as opposed to using a long lens with a tripod collar. And be assured, when you move up to your next camera body, these will no doubt fit right on it.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Well made and works great! I choose the Neewer DC-38C QR Clamp to convert my two small Manfrotto 492 ball heads to Arca-Swiss (AS). The 492 ball stem has a 1/4 bolt and a flat tip (no boss), so this flat bottom clamp with 1/4 socket is perfect. The DC-38C appears to be a clone of the Really Right Stuff B2-FABN 38mm Screw-knob clamp, but is considerably less expensive. Installation took mere minutes: unscrew the top disk of the 492 and screw the DC-38C on the ball stem. I used a washer to keep the 1/4 stud from protruding from the top of the clamp. I added a drop of Locklite to keep the clamp from spinning under load. The DAC-38 is more versatile than most small clamps, boasting three strap loops for securing to a shoulder strap or safety cable. Plus, the bottom edges are a 38mm Arca dovetail, allowing the DAC-38 to be mounted on another clamp or rail. My experience with the DC-38Q has been great: holds small cameras, LED lights and audio recorders like a clamp. Its surprisingly well made and a great value.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Real nice, but not quite perfect. This L-bracket is nicely made and the thumbwheel makes it easy to attach to your camera without needing an allen wrench or fiddling with a small d-ring type screw. My arthritic hands approve! The horizontal slot for the camera fixing screw accommodates both my SLR and point-and-shoot cameras just fine. The only problems are that the 1/4-20 screw is slightly too long and bottoms out in the socket on my Canon G15 before the camera is hard against the plate. Also, the surface the camera sits on is hard and smooth anodized aluminum, which does nothing to keep the camera from rotating. Like other "universal" plates that don't have a custom-fit lip on the back, it desperately needs rubber or cork inserts. I put two strips of 1/16" cork on mine with double-sided tape, and it's working okay (see picture...it doesn't look great right now, I'll neaten it up later). That also solves the problem of the too-long screw. If it had grippy rubber inserts on the camera platform and the screw was 1/2 a thread shorter, this would be a 5-star review.
Target text information: Fits great on a D750 and Manfrotto 486RC2 Ball Head! I use the Manfrotto 486RC2 Ball Head and was really concerned that the quick release would be loose (wobbly) as others had suggested; however, it is just as tight as the regular Manfrotto quick release plates. The metal feels durable and holds my camera nicely: both in landscape and portrait. To demonstrate how durable it is, I set my camera in portrait mode with my Nikon 70-200mm 2.8f lens on the front. I would not connect it like this in the field, this is only to show not only the tightness of the fit, but also the strength of the material (You will need to tighten down the screw that connects to the camera with a flat head, or the provided allen wrench; though, I suggest a large flat head.). I have attached a photo to show what I have described. I also noticed several people complaining about how they were not able to get to their cable inputs. I have a Nikon D750 and when positioned in the correct way, I was able to get the the Mic's and the cable release ports relatively easily. No matter what I did, however, I could not get access to the HDMI and the USB. You may be able to mess with it and get access but it will require some hands on. If you have any more questions, let me know. I hope this review helps. Keep in mind, my review only concerns the Nikon D750 and Manfrotto 486RC2 ball head.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,684
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Excellent ultra wide people still don't know about. I've owned this lens since February and it is my favorite lens for hiking. Using an ultra wide angle lens is a unique experience that comes with a steeper learning curve then most other ranges. The biggest concept to grasp is scale, at 10mm an object 1 foot from your lens will look like its 5 feet away through the viewfinder, so composition and corner to corner attention to detail is crucial to getting a good image. Distortion at its widest is reasonable and expected. It is incredibly sharp in center to mid frame wide open, but it can get a little soft on the edges. I own the Canon 70-200mm 2.8 IS USM II , so I know what sharp looks like and I have no gripes with this sigma. Focus is quick and the rings have just the right amount of tension allowing for precise setting. Try laying on the ground and have a friend jump over you, ultra wide angle lens have incredibly large depths of field and it's hard for this lens to miss focus. Also the minimum focusing distance is inches from the front element, so watch those cactus needle in the desert. The color reproduction is wonderful, and flare is controlled very well by design. The hood is ample, although when shooting wide the sun always seems to find its way into frame. Chromatic Aberration can occur towards the sides of the frames, but due to the previously mentioned scaling effect, you would have to crop into the image to notice it. The case is great, although I never knew how awkward working a cube into my camera bag would be. I eventually started leaving the case at home as it just took up to much room in my bag. Ultimately I do not regret this purchase one bit. Compared to other ultra wides, I couldn't tell you, all I can tell you as this is my go to lens when I'm feeling creative and it hasn't let me down yet. I'll post sample pics to illustrate my points.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Had 2 bad batteries sent, but they replaced them immediately and were very very helpful! Worst decision I ever made... Trying to save a buck.... I bought 2, charged both, inserted into my Canon camera and they worked. Took both out and stored in camera bag. Went to use them and both were dead and both won't charge now. Lesson learned... if you're a pro, buy pro gear... if you want to take a chance, you get what you pay for. Amended on 11/20/17... After leaving my original feedback, the company emailed me asking for an in depth explanation and then responded asking me if they could send me 2 new batteries in place of the ones that didn't work. To be honest, I was blown away. When, in this day and age does that ever happen any more? So I agreed, what did I have to lose? The customer rep was on top of things every step of the way and it seemed that they could not do enough to make it right! My new batteries were rushed to me and upon arrival I charged them and used them on a job the next day. I charged them again and they are still up and running. I use a Canon charger that shows in real time the charge capacity and when it is fully charged. Some off brands will not do that, but these happily are recognized and work perfectly. S--t happens and lets face it, any company can miss occasionally, but not every company stands behind their products. This company does. I will buy confidently from them again.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Followed instructions installed. First day out looked down it ... Followed instructions installed. First day out looked down it was gone did not adhere. Look for a different brand save your money.
Target text information: I absolute love this charger I absolute love this charger! I would give it a 5 star, but it is still catching up on charge times. I have purchased 3 of them. 2 are for my canon LP-E6 and 1 for my EN-EL 15 for my Nikon. The output is somewhat low. In the future will see 5V 3A or 4A devices. The EN-EL 15 took around 2H:42M minutes to charge. The Canon LP-E6 took around 2H: 30M. I am happy this is out here! I have been waiting for a solution to charge my DSLR Cameras while I am in the outdoors with a solar panel.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,685
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Very nice This is just like the one that came with my camcorder (JVC GZ-MG27U). I charged it up in my new Dekcell Camcorder Battery Charger (see my positive review)and then attached it to my camcorder. It showed 70 min fully charged! My old one now only shows 30 min when fully charged. I also bought the BN-VF-733U which has 3 hour fully charged, but it's much bigger and sticks out. It's nice to have the compact one for regular use, and the big one in case you need the extra time without having to change batteries or recharge. I also ordered the BN-VF-714U, but it hasn't come yet. I think it will be a compromise, in between the 707 and 733 in both size and length of time it will last.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Product was as advertised The information about the battery was correct, it fit my camera and it allowed me to use my camera again to video tape an important event. Thank you!
1-hop neighbor's text information: wrong item I ordered a JVC camcorder AC adapter charger, number AP-V14U. I was sent number AP-V14. The charger does not fit. Now its really going to be a hassle to get my money back,and then get the right item!!
Target text information: It's all good It works fine. No complaints here
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,686
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Excellent Starter or Spare Tripod - Great Value for the Buck! One can never have "too many" tripods but few things are more infuriating than a poorly designed tripod. It's always a balancing act to find a starter or spare tripod that is affordable without being "cheap". This strikes a nice balance between affordability and function. If you are looking at this tripod then you probably have also viewed the Vista Explorer Tripod <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Vista-Explorer-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-with-Tripod-Bag/dp/B000V7AF8E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Vista Explorer 60-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Tripod Bag</a>. I've owned the Vista tripod (and I'm the top reviewer for it) for over three years and will say right up front, this AmazonBasics tripod is VERY similar in style, function and features. Both are affordable options that make a perfect starter, secondary or spare tripod although at the time of this writing, the Amazon tripod is actually less expensive! Features: Tripod bag - No, not a necessity but it's nice to have a tripod bag and frankly, the cost of most bags is nearly that of this entire unit so you really can't go wrong. This tripod bag (and the tripod) do say "AmazonBasics" so prepare to do a bit of advertising for Amazon in exchange for a great price and highly functional unit. Quick Connect - Yes, this tripod does include a quick disconnect feature. The camera screws on top and then a lever releases/connects the plate. Quick Hang Hook - Nice addition for those that desire it. Ability to set-up on non level surfaces. There is small level built in to this unit which is a change from the Vista unit (perhaps that has been added in the past several years but mine is several years old). However, the level is small and hard to see so of fairly limited potential except in good lighting. Rotates in all directions - fairly smooth but certainly not professional quality. Ability to hold a decent sized DSLR - not just a lightweight point and shoot. Carry handle - pick up and move easily. Lightweight but with solid spread and decent height. Again, this is not a professional solution whatsoever but for the average hobbiest or someone that needs a spare to toss in the vehicle, this tripod will get the job done. Really can't beat the price and features! Super starter, spare or secondary tripod.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Very small, but good for a simplistic, mini tripod. For what it is, I think it is a pretty good tripod for the price. It isn't meant to be the most versatile tripod out there, just good enough to hold your camera for stills or a small webcam. Adjusting this is pretty easy and it lucks and unlocks its position with just the turn of the latch on the side. This tripod was a lot smaller than I was expecting it to be so its nice for traveling or where you have to set up in a small place. Since it isn't the biggest tripod, make sure everything is balanced before you walk away from your setup. You don't need your nice camera falling over.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Picture speaks for itself... Gamechanger and lifesaver. Was able to film my own proposal in Hawaii and take amazing pictures that a "selfie-stick" would have ruined. Picture speaks for itself....
Target text information: good product and great seller fast shipping, good product and great seller, thank you!
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
6
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,687
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Nice! It fits great on my D5300. It even comes with 2 screen protections. I am so clumsy I really need this product!
1-hop neighbor's text information: Works good with 1D MK IV I've added pictures to show the nice fit, even using a 300mm telephoto with Wimberly head. This rain coat rocks! You'll see various views, even using the back lifted up as I like to get close to the camera for viewing through the viewfinder. There are all of the possibilities available with this rain cover. I did not use the hands through the side access sleeves as that is too clinical unless there were buckets of rain coming down. At some point, you just have to decide for yourself and keeping the camera dry is what this rain coat does very well. The strap inside the lens sleeve seems to be in the way and I'm considering cutting it off as a nuisance.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Using with Canon T3i + lens hood Simple protection with a fun pop of color, but annoying if you need to reach for your camera often. I purchased this case so I could stash my Canon T3i in my hiking/day bag instead of carrying my heavier dedicated camera backpack that doesn't hold water bottles, bladders, or other things I need when hiking. The sleek neoprene case provides just enough protection against bumps and scratches without being bulky. It also feels nice to have that padded cushion against your hip when the camera is hanging off your shoulder. The sleeve fits snugly over my Canon T3i body + kit lens (18-55mm) + lens hood. The small zippered compartment is just big enough to hold a couple SD cards or a remote shutter. Velcro enclosure means you don't need to fuss with buttons to remove the camera from the sleeve. Unfortunately it gets annoying to constantly undo the velcro and wiggle the camera out of the case and wiggle it back in after every use. On my hiking trip I ended up just hanging the bare camera around my neck because I didn't want to deal with the case anymore. I think this case is better suited for those who want to keep their camera close but know they won't reach for it very often. Because it is a free-standing case (no attached strap - use your own camera strap) it becomes just another loose item when your camera is in use. You'll need to either hold the case in your hand while taking your photo, throw it on the ground and out of the way (don't forget to pick it back up), hand the case to a friend/spouse/sibling to hold for a minute, stash the case away in your bag, or clip the case to your belt loop or bag strap with the attached velcro loop or your own carabiner (I use a carabiner). And then unclip after you finish taking your photo. Yeah, it's as annoying as it sounds. Still, it's good at protecting the camera when not in use, and that's essentially what I bought it for.
Target text information: Great if you need it. Identical to the DELKIN SNUG PRO unit ( it is MADE BY DELKIN who has discontinued it's DELKIN Silicone covers ). There is no protection for the lens, but if you want...you can slightly modify this cove and still use an extended Battery Grip. All you need is a sharp razer and a steady hand, and two minutes to do some trimming to the bottom, and you are good to go with protection for the expensive Camera Body. Highly Recommend.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
5
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,688
|
1-hop neighbor's text information: Very Disappointed Anything is better than the one-size-fits-all rubber-band style of focus gears. However... There is a huge design/assembly problem with these gears. The two half-moon slugs that create the clamping should be different. Although the receiving D-shaped slug for the tightening screw has a threaded brass insert, the opposite slug (see arrow in pic) has too small a hole - and so the screw won't pass through it. It's not threaded, per se, but whoever assembled these would have HAD to turn the screw through this part, and someone should have known better so that the manufacturing process could be altered to make a larger hole. Because it was easier than returning the parts, I simply modified the slugs by boring all three of them out a little with a drill. But be forewarned - you'll have to modify these to get them to work properly. On a side note, these will not fit your Canon 50mm f/1.8 "nifty fifty" lens. The smallest gear won't open large enough and the medium gear won't clamp down small enough. These were a waste of money for me.
1-hop neighbor's text information: Measure twice , Buy Once or buy more if you have the right sized lenses I just got these in the mail a couple of hours ago, and I'm pleased with the quality and construction. As you may know Lens Gear rings provide a major step up in production when you don't have true cinema lenses in your arsenal. I have purchased the <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Neewer-Adjustable-Follow-Focus-Gear-Ring-Belt-for-DSLR-Lenses-HDSLR-Follow-Focus-fits-any-lens-with-diameter-from-65mm-to-105mm/dp/B008PP3LY4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Neewer Adjustable Follow Focus Gear Ring Belt for DSLR Lenses/HDSLR Follow Focus, fits any lens with diameter from 65mm to 105mm</a> before and they were able to make my follow focus work, but they leave all the extra gear ring "strap" hanging out and you have to tie or secure them to the ring which makes an oval / nautilus shaped gear ring. I will need them because there are some situations where this new set just won't work and you'll see why. I was ready to step up to this design but the cost has been prohibitive for a full set of 6-8 lenses until now. I took my chances on these as a new product and I'm happy I did. But there are some things to be aware of before you guy them. Here's the good and bad of it. PROS: Great Price: This is pretty obvious. Good Construction: I pulled and tugged and stretched on them and they hold up well. Simple packaging. A box with lenses in a plastic bag. No hassles and no "are these used goods" kind of red flags. Fits well with some lenses and standard follow focus gears: the mid-sized ring fits perfectly snug on L Series glass (17-40 Canon F4) It is snug and there's room for a larger lens but when tightened down flush like it shows in the photos these will fit perfectly on your L Series Glass. When using these on a non L series they are so snug and tight fitting that you can see them pull down on the camera / lens when you get to the end of the focus spin on a ring that doesn't spin on the lens after infinity or minimum focus distance. I take that as a sign that these are really holding on well to lenses with rubber focus rings. CONS: 3 rings don't rule them all! These gear rings err on the side of too large instead of too small. They have these long screws and they don't use them at all. If you have any old school manual photo lenses the smalles ring just isn't "small enough." I think they should have made the smallest gear have even longer inside "brackets" to hold onto smaller lenses. If you have anything smaller than a true 58mm focus ring, then you are not going to be able to use these without adding something to your lens to increase it's circumference. The largest ring is so large that it would probably take a 70-200mm L series lens or something even bigger. And those lenses are rarely used in video production because of their cost and focal lengths they are pretty impractical options; of course gear rings are made for shooting video. I think they should have reconsidered how they size these and allow the long screw to work in your favor when you need them to fit on a larger piece of glass, instead of just having them need to be totally tightened down to be useful. I think 2 of these will be useful for adding a gear to most common photo lenses. The most useful one will be the mid sized ring or the smaller ring big the big ring is just too big. CONCLUSION: So I would say you MUST MEASURE YOUR FOCUS RINGS FIRST, before buying these. You can use those tape measures for sewing. If you find one without metric measurements just convert it using google. Even if you just wrap something (string, ribbon) around your lenses/focus rings then lay the string out and measure it with a ruler it's better than nothing. Then you will have a good idea of how useful these would be for mod-ing your glass. REAL WORLD SPECS: 1. Small Ring: You NEED to be a minimum of about 65-mm for the smallest ring to fit properly for a production as is. Any lens with a ring smaller than 63mm will probably need gaff tape or something on it to get the circumference wide enough to use the small gear in this set during production. 2. Middle Ring: As stated the mid-sized gear fits perfectly on an L series with front filter screw that is 77mm. The smallest focus ring that the mid sized gear will work on is about 74-75mm in this set. That's what I put it on and it is nearly flush on both ends of the gear ring when tightened down on this lens. It could go a little tighter if your lens is a little smaller. But there's not much room to spare. 3. Big Ring: You need a focus ring with a minimum of 82-85 mm on your lens for the largest gear in this set to hold tightly enough to work properly. I double checked these numbers using a set of step up rings ranging from 49mm to 82mm. But be aware, if you don't have solid rubber or plastic ridges on your lens' focus ring then you will need these to be very tight because there's no rubber or ridges on the feet of the gear brackets where they contact the lens. LARGE LENSES: I tested the smallest gear ring to see how much more size you get with the screw loosened all the way. A 72mm ring fits inside at full extension but it is too loose for operation. I think you need a ring that is about 74-75mm to operate it properly. So the small ring has a range of 65mm - approx. 74.5 mm. Since all of these have the same screw you can basically add about 9 or 10mm to the minimum sizes stated above and then you have the maximum size for each ring in the set as is out of the box. You could always go to a hardware store and ger a longer screw if you need a few more mm of extension but at some point you would not be able to fit around the lens at all since a screw is straight. Room for improvement: Rubberized fittings or ridges to hold onto the lens a little more securely. It would be great if you could choose which sizes you wanted in your set If the small ring was small enough for small 55mm lenses that would be helpful for a lot of people Maybe a longer screw to compensate for smaller lens brackets would be more universal/useful for the market searching for this product. If these improvements were made THEN this would be a 5star offering. I hope this is a helpful review. Thanks for reading to the bitter and informative end! Now get out there and shoot something .... something good!
Target text information: Four Stars Works well cheap and looks good.
I provide the content of the target node and its neighbors' information. The relation between the target node and its 1-hop neighbors is 'co-purchase'. The 12 categories are:
0: Video Surveillance
1: Accessories
2: Binoculars & Scopes
3: Video
4: Lighting & Studio
5: Bags & Cases
6: Tripods & Monopods
7: Flashes
8: Digital Cameras
9: Film Photography
10: Lenses
11: Underwater Photography
Question: Based on the content of the target and neighbors' photo items, predict the category ID (0 to 11) for the target node.
|
1
| 1
|
photo
|
train
| 278,689
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.